Inline Injection Sprayer, Injector Swap Program

[Joe]

Scott's repair went well. Both like new, actually better than new with the stainless nozzle bushings.
Both suck hard except adjusting knobs are not very reliable.
I calibrated them to 4:1 best I could.

and here's the type of US Mail Flat Rate envelope you want:

back at you Scott...

[Joe]

Answer to above Quiz question?
Oetiker clamps.

Another cleaner, this one out of San Antonio, he gets it...the Injector Swap Program.

He bought my Lifetime stainless Injector blocks, got them into his fleet, then immediately turned around and sent in his bad ones for repair. They needed it too. He sent them in on Friday and he'll have them back in his hands on Monday. I made sure of this because he went to the trouble of providing me a postage paid ($6.45) return envelope. So all I had to do was make the repairs then drop them into the envelope he provided me and beeline it to the Post Office. Easy.
Like the guy from Michigan above, he saved himself money by using US MAIL FLAT RATE ENVELOPES.
Only thing he could have done better was use cardboard envelope inside, and a padded envelope outside.
Both of his bad ones were savable and the repair costs were right at the average (see the repairs below) so he will have 6 good ones for the price of 5. Plus 4 of them have a Lifetime warranty. You guys will start realizing the built-in value of these Lifetime warrantys when you see that your metering blocks just won't die. Hell no! They're made of stainless steel instead of what you were conditioned to accept - cheap brass. Like brass jets. Who even uses brass jets anymore?!?!

Here's his packaging and invoice where he originally bot into the Swap Program, and the bad injectors he sent for repair:

In almost every repair, the draw tube and knurled knob are extremely worn and need replacing.
So if I were to make an Injector Rebuild Kit, it would definitely include the Draw Tube Assembly yet none do. Shameful.

Just look how beat up the insides of his knurled knobs were...

They're supposed to look like this.

They are hardly ever worth saving so you guys waste $35 bucks on a useless rebuild kit then go buy a whole new sprayer cuz you couldn't get it to work with the Rebuild kit they sold you. It's all part of con game your suppliers have you conditioned to accept. Get pissed. Throw up your hands and go buy another brand new sprayer.

No way that check valve is going to work right cuz it's bone on bone; steel on steel that is, the stainless ball has no rubber to seat against so hot water is gonna drain down into the jug the whole time the sprayer is in use. Not good.
The other thing all these brass injectors need is stainless nozzle bushings, not brass. A good rebuild kit would include a stainless nozzle bushing.
And just look at the rusty screw clamp and lame zip-tie.

No way anybody's gonna fix this. Can you see why Oetiker clamps are so important? Oetiker earned a US Patent for being the first clamp to breathe, that is, contract and expand as temperature & pressure changed. The patent has long since expired but I will always support the inventor.

The repair went as usual, replace the draw tube assembly, replace the nozzle bushing and clean em up a little and test. Like magic, dead injectors made as good as new again...

I gave him some new foam sleeves for being supportive of the Swap Program.
I'm gonna be helping this guy for years.

[truckmountsteamclean]

Thanks,
Joe.. They work awesome I got them quick and are back in the field working
Like new..

[Joe]

From pictures in the above post, the upper end of the Draw Tubes needed to be replaced...

In almost every repair, the draw tube and knurled knob (ie the seal inside) are extremely worn and need replacing. So if I were to make an Injector Rebuild Kit, it would definitely include the Draw Tube Assembly, yet none do.

So, we just added the Draw Tube to the store cuz it's the thing I replace most often in these repairs.
This is what yours should look like...

If your seal looks chewed up or you can't see through your draw tube, you should consider getting yourself a new Draw Tube Assembly and do the test explained below.

Some guys that come by my shop don't know there's a simple test that they can do (and teach their techs to do) at the start of the job so you KNOW that your injection sprayer is working properly. You don't have to clean half a day to realize your jug is not emptying.

Do this simple test and you will "see" if it is working or not ...

Connect your inline sprayer to your pressure line, with your truckmount running. Now unscrew the big white cap at the top of the jug and lift the draw tube so your strainer screen is up & out of your prespray juice. Next, simply pull the trigger on your spray gun and you should see bubbles start to rise up the draw tube. This is showing you that the injector is doing its job - trying to 'draw' liquid up the draw tube. Slide the end of the draw tube back down into the juice and you should see it drawing up juice again. Repeat this test a couple of times so you know if your injector is working or not. If it's not drawing, then your sprayer is not working correctly and you should 'swap' it out with one that is.

If you're part of the Injector Swap Program then you will have a fresh injector in your toolbox ready to go.
Just unscrew your bad injector at the Quick Change Adapter and screw on the fresh injector and test it.
It should be working cuz it's the last test I do before sending it to you.
In this way, you should always know your inline sprayers are working. Hope this helps

Another even simpler method that usually tells you if it's working is to just spray the carpet or some concrete. You should see some white foamy bubbles. Right?

Of course temperature comes in to play here too. If your incoming water is over about 190F then you're injector will not be drawing correctly (the water is now mostly in gas phase but injectors need a dense mass like water flowing across the orifice to create the venturi effect). So test your injectors with less than screaming hot water whichever test you do.

[Joe]

About a year ago I showed this injector and how it was near dead,

When the pointed tip of a pin file pokes through to the output side, your injector is toast.

Just like brass jets, the opening gets blown out from high pressure water blasting through that tiny hole.
With injectors, you've got that same high pressure water trying to get through the nozzle bushing then the output side of the venturi chamber, so that the small end of the funnel takes a beating (see cross-section below). Especially if your injector is made of brass, even nickel plated brass like most are, that brass is gonna get blown away just like a brass jet.

But if you get in on my Swap Program and you get my stainless injector - guaranteed for life.

I believe the injector below had more than high pressure water blasting through it.
For a hole this big. somebody had to have used a drill with an 1/8" drill bit.

Not the first one I've seen like this.
Never try to drill through your injectors. Send them to me and I'll fix them the right way, for cheap.
This guy set a new record for the lowest amount spent sending me bad injectors, beating out Ryan, but it was for naught.
The drill bit killed his injector. Should I have some little caskets made for sending these back to their owner?

[Joe]

This group of 3 injector assemblies was sent in for repair.
The customer said "save what you can. I hope to get 3 working injection sprayers and a Courtesy hose Wash Downer out of it. Anything left over you can sell it or give it away or toss it. ..."

Here's the injector assemblies he sent me...

During the repairs, I installed new parts to replace obvious bad ones. I always replace the draw tubes and brass nozzle bushings with stainless. I try to get each assembly to where it should work IF the injector body itself is still good.
So during testing the only reason they would not draw correctly is if the injector body itself was bad. Recall, it's the injector bodies can get blown out like a brass jet and just not function right. It's the output tapered funnel that must reduce the velocity after the siphoning chamber that must be intact else the whole block is worthless; it just won't draw no matter what you do.
In this case, all 3 'looked' like they should be OK, but after isolating variables I could see that 2 of the 3 injector bodies were bad. No problem. I replaced them with my lifetime warranty all stainless injectors and he's back in business with 3 working assemblies.

I went through the mess of guns and supply lines he sent me and managed to come away with 3 working guns, one for each of the injector assemblies.
Plus I turned one of his guns into a Wash Downer. I used 6ft Cool Flex for the courtesy hose due to its flexibility.

Here's all the good and bad of it.

I spent over 3 hours of free labor on this one.
Kept me out of trouble all morning.
Wait til he gets it all back.
He'll be happy.

the good

the bad

the good

the bad

Who's next?

[Scott_S]

Put my no drip spray tips on last night.

[Joe]

So here's the Swap Program running real smooth.
Soul man, member here, started it off by buying some of my all stainless injectors and sending in a few bad ones for repair.
You can see his repair on Dec 4 last year. His is the one with the knarly knurled knobs on his draw tubes.
So I fixed those injectors and sent them back and he paid me for the repairs after I sent him a bill by Paypal.

Now 3 months later, I get 3 more knarly injectors on their last legs.
I'll spare you the details. Point is, Soul man's got it down.
He's got the good ones workin and he's feeding me the bad ones for repair.

It's Sunday, and I put them together the way they need to be so when he gets them he can immediately put them out in the field. He's got like 7 vans so no time for messing around. We've done everything by email and through the store up to now, so he trusts me. But I thought I'd ask him for sure what parts he wanted.
He didn't even hesitate. You can see his response,

"Do what needs done."

Busy man. 4 words. Gotta love that huh?

OK.
It'll be 3 like-new injectors on the way back on Monday. 4 day turn around.
Ill bill him via Paypal and he'll have 6 or 7 working injectors; way better than before he started working the Swap.

More of you guys should trust in this way of doing it.
I make a damn good lifetime stainless injector.
I repair the bad ones like a pro.
You send em.
I return em.
Neither one of us breaks stride.

So, I've shown how the Swap Program works in every detail a dozen or more times, but I've never sold you guys a single injection sprayer. Not once have I?

And do you know why?
Cuz I wanted to totally convince you that this is way to keep your injection sprayers working with the absolute least amount of time, hassle and expense the SWAP PROGRAM.
A lot of you guys get it.

So now I'm gonna show you the sprayer I sell.

It's got all the bells & whistles and it only costs $150 delivered.
I've sold a bunch of them but never once mentioned it here because I didn't want to spoil the Swap Program.

Jonathan will be adding it to the store soon as he gets the one I'm sending him and you guys can start buying the whole thing, or any parts thereof.

Just don't forget the Swap program or all this explaining will be for naught.

YOU DON'T NEED THE JUG AND THE GUN AND THE SUPPLY HOSE, USUALLY.
USUALLY YOU JUST NEED A NEW INJECTOR BLOCK OR HAVE YOUR OLD ONES REPAIRED.

LONG LIVE THE SWAP.

I'm here for you,
Joe

Go make money.

[Joe]

Here's a bunch of injectors needing repair from Ryan.

What I received...

Ryan did good by sending me these. He was smart to use the correct envelope,
the Padded Flat Rate Envelope. INSIST ON IT. It's cheap at only $6 to $7 and it will not tear.

Ever wonder what solvents cause? Just look at how hard these draw tubes are. I hope it reminds you of hardening of the arteries cuz that's what solvents do to rubber, and our arteries aren't much different. than rubber. No joke.
The fluid hoses I use to pump solvents get hard as a rock, and stiff, just like these draw tubes. I worry about you guys using presprays with solvents in them every day.
It's why I sell hand pumps for your gallons jugs of degreasers, so you only use them as needed, not everywhere, everyday.

Here's what I do to every injector that comes in...

First, drill out the old brass nozzle bushing and clean it up on the inside and see if the thin file pokes through to the other side. This tells me if the injector body itself still has life. These all passed except the adjustable one.

Second, replace the nozzle bushing with a lifetime stainless one.

Third, install a new Draw tube (Siphon Tube on the store)

It only took me about 15 minutes to repair them all. How long would it take you guys?
They've all got the Quick Change Adapter so now Ryan will have essentially 5 new injector blocks.

I need Ryan to tell me what he wants to do about the 3 Females QDs. They are all junk. They only have one oring. One of them I've never seen, gotta be 20 years old. Note they are all from different families too.
Remember, you should try to get all your QDs in one family. I make them like Foster. Other guys like Parkers or the ones Bridgepoint gets from China. Whatever, pick one brand and stick with them and your fit issues will go away.

Actually, I don't recommend Female QDs at all for the front of the injector, expensive and adds weight. Instead your swivel should always be at the terminal end, your tool, in this case, the gun. Get a swivel at the end of your supply line that mates your gun.
So what do you want to do Ryan?

[ryanwaitkunas]

Can u put 3 swuivels on and leave others blank. Looks great, thanks a million! Let me know the total I owe ya

[Joe]

OK thanks Ryan.
Another thing, you may not need all those Quick Change adapters. You really only need one per truck so it 's easy to swap injectors if you need to. So ho many trucks do you run?
And do you need any brass tube handles with foam sleeves?

[Joe]

Q:
On the injection sprayer swap program what does the $43.00 cover. Is that for the repair and service? It state service is free except part. If the entire system is updated what would the cost be? What do the individual parts cost?
Steve

Response:
I explain the injector swap program in detail with numerous examples of repair at honestcleaner.com
See this thread:

Inline Injection Sprayer, Injector Swap Program

I have a hydroforce…have not used it in some time. I put it down after a while after becoming fustrated with not metering correctly once the water coming through became super hot. Thought to revive it again. Any parts replacement kit for these or just buy new again?

So in a crude sense this place could become a bible for future generations of cleaners; a library; a resource of real world experience led by manufacturers/suppliers who really care to solve problems related to cleaning. Spread this love to any cleaner who will listen so we can all grow together in prosperity.

.

[Joe]

Been getting a lot of injectors in need of repair at the Wanders test facility lately.
This one is typical. Got it in the mail on Friday. Will be back in his hands on Monday.
Three HF injectors, all good, all just needed a few parts, all fixed. total bill $47.50, averaging $15 each.
All needed the same old service: acid cleaning, ss nozzle bushing and draw tube assembly.
I added my ss male which the guy may turn down cuz it adds $12 to each one but I needed them on there for testing.

What came to me in the mail:

partially dissassembled

cleaned up & ready for reassembly

reassembled & tested & ready to be returned

So this guy didn't have to buy my $43 lifetime stainless injector.
Instead, he sent his three bad ones in for repair.
He'll get all 3 back in good working order.
Probably be 1-2 years before he needs me again.
Best part is he won't ever have to walk into his supplier's store with his pants down begging to get screwed.
Those days are over with thanks to the Injector Swap Program.

Where are your messed up injectors?
You need to be sending them in to me for repair.

[kevinj6121]

Well ok i'm really liking that injection sprayer better then the hydraforce i currently have thats 5 years old, still works but the side fill and the built in holder on this one will be much better to work with.
Gonna have to order one here real soon

[Joe]

Good time to gather up your bad injectors and get them repaired.
Free labor.
Expert skills.
I'm on your side.
The Injector Swap Program.
Repairs are averaging $12 each.
It's one of my best service values.
Send i your bad blocks ad I fix them.
If they can't be fixed I'll send you one of my lifetime injectors.
What a good feeling, going into Spring with all your injectors working.
Joe

[Ryan]

I love this thread. I always think about Joe's repair swap program when I see the bunch of blocks I've swapped out. I just got a bunch together last week that will be sent to him for repair.

I'm finally out of all the the QD's I ordered a while back. Joe sends them in an egg box. I just keep them on the self like that all the guys have to do is grab and go.

Probably should call the old man, haven't talked to him in awhile.

[Joe]

Last time we talked you said you threw all my stuff in the trash.

[Ryan]

No I didn't.......Your still my guy! I just can't find an intelligent person to invest in. So I'm stuck with the poor work force of america. I'm trying with all I can.

I'm not on the van anymore Joe, I wish I could find a passionate guy like me at McDonalds. They just are not there.

Heck, I hired my Dad to follow them around and make sure they open all the doors in every room to clean them. Got nothing but love for ya.

[Joe]

he poor work force of america.

Boy ain't that the truth.

[4SamuelS]

Getting ready to send some your way Joe.